Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
Buy Sell Trade Audio Equipment => Looking for something special? => Topic started by: Jim Pittsburgh on April 26, 2019, 09:47:45 AM
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Looking for a used / relatively inexpensive sub for the patio. If working it has to be one with high level inputs and preferably outputs, Down firing would be on my wish list too but not necessary lol Working would be nice but I can replace driver or amp... smallish cabinet. If it's just a cabinet would have to be down firing. send me a pic... Let me know what you got laying around.
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How much power do you need? I have a couple cheapo things hanging around.
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power isn't the issue at all... it's more about the amp having the speaker wire input (not line level) and the high level output speaker wire connections.
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I have a HK SUB TS-15. It has the passive x-over and is downward firing. It won't blow you away but the WAF isn't bad and I'll sell it to you for what I paid if you want it (free).
https://www.amazon.com/Harman-Kardon-High-Performance-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000K818SA (https://www.amazon.com/Harman-Kardon-High-Performance-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000K818SA)
I have just the sub, not the satellites (which I know is what you want anyway, I just mention it because I didn't find a link for just the sub).
Here is a drawing of the back panel...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/771679/Harman-Kardon-Sub-Ts15.html?page=6#manual (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/771679/Harman-Kardon-Sub-Ts15.html?page=6#manual)
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If that HK works and has the speaker wire inputs and high pass outputs, I'll gladly take it. Sounds like it ticks off all the boxes! thanks. sorry I missed your post earlier.
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I was told that it works. I'll fire it up and make sure later today.
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Well, Jim, the cabinet is good and the driver is good, but after about ten minutes the amp went from playing music to just making a crackling sound. But if you want it it is yours.
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lol sincerely, thanks for the effort! give me a couple of days to see what I can find.
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I found this video and this is exactly what this unit is doing. Didn't the manufacturers learn about the brown glue from Sansui in the 70s? Or do they use the brown glue for planned obsolesce? At any rate it looks like an easy fix.
I think it is an easier fix than trying to get a link to work on this board.
The name of the YouTube video is "SUB-TS15 making strange noises - easy repair". Put that in Google and it will pop up.
It sounded pretty decent for the ten minutes or so it was working.
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Bought a used Dayton Audio Sub 1000 and tried it as an experiment with my outdoor speakers... sounded pretty darn bad. Figured it was either the crossover in the Dayton or the new cheap in-wall speaker wires I was using. Moved the old but high end for the time, Velodyne sub from my son's living room outdoors and gave it a try... truly much, much better. ... replaced the speaker wires with better and we were in business! Sounded very good actually. Sadly, I can't bring myself to use the Velodyne outdoors for the season. Will keep my eyes open for a better "inexpensive" sub with high level inputs and outputs. I'm sure that the Dayton will sound fair using the line level inputs ... $50 and it's yours lol
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Bought a used Dayton Audio Sub 1000 and tried it as an experiment with my outdoor speakers... sounded pretty darn bad. Figured it was either the crossover in the Dayton or the new cheap in-wall speaker wires I was using. Moved the old but high end for the time, Velodyne sub from my son's living room outdoors and gave it a try... truly much, much better. ... replaced the speaker wires with better and we were in business! Sounded very good actually. Sadly, I can't bring myself to use the Velodyne outdoors for the season. Will keep my eyes open for a better "inexpensive" sub with high level inputs and outputs. I'm sure that the Dayton will sound fair using the line level inputs ... $50 and it's yours lol
I just thought of what you should do. If you want something good but weather resistant, you should Google "bucket sub" and make one of those. You'll never worry about damaging the cabinet. Run it with an outboard power amp. Maybe Nick has one of those Niles (IIRC) subwoofer amps left. You can just put the amp with the source and run speaker wire.
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power isn't the issue at all... it's more about the amp having the speaker wire input (not line level) and the high level output speaker wire connections.
It is VERY easy to make a speaker level to line level adapter (2 resistors). In fact it is how I drive my subs. That would allow you to have a lot more sub woofer options. If you'd like I can show you how to do it.
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Do you use a Y adapter to split the signal? I using a stereo signal via Zone 2 from my HT receiver... via long distance 14 gauge wire runs. Send me a picture of how you are doing it please, along with a diagram of the wiring/ resistors needed. Thanks
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Ron,
I think many of us would be interested in the line level mod... If needed, PM me...
thanks,
George
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Do you use a Y adapter to split the signal? I using a stereo signal via Zone 2 from my HT receiver... via long distance 14 gauge wire runs. Send me a picture of how you are doing it please, along with a diagram of the wiring/ resistors needed. Thanks
You need one of these circuits for each channel. So a total of 2 X 1k Ohm resistors and 2 X 10k Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors. I made mine with 5-way binding posts for speaker level inputs and RCA jacks for the line outputs. Just run in parallel to your speaker connections at the output of your amp.
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I think I'm missing something... not all that unusual lol But I think your set up would work if the destination of the signal were only to the sub. I need the signal to also go to the satellite speakers. Have only tried once that I can recall, using binding posts as links between speakers in the past with OK at best results. Thanks... Will give it some thought.
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power isn't the issue at all... it's more about the amp having the speaker wire input (not line level) and the high level output speaker wire connections.
It is VERY easy to make a speaker level to line level adapter (2 resistors). In fact it is how I drive my subs. That would allow you to have a lot more sub woofer options. If you'd like I can show you how to do it.
If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly, wouldn't this leave his mains playing full range? I got the impression that at least part of what he was looking for was to take some bottom end load off the mains so they would play louder with less breakup. At least that is one of the benefits of a passive crossover system (or really any crossover).
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All of the sub woofers that I am familiar with only have a low pass filter. If you buy an integrated 2.1 speaker system they would have a built in high pass for the satellites and low pass for the woofer.
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yes and yes.... thanks. "Vintage" subs from even just a few years ago had high level (speaker) inputs with a high level output that went through a low pass filter.... which allowed the satellites / mains to do their thing above the adjustable level of the low pass filter that the sub takes care of.playing. Line level inputs take care of this through the receiver. controls... but the zone two on my receiver does not have that option. The pic below shows what I'm talking about.