Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
General Banter => The Circular File => Topic started by: gdv on February 19, 2014, 09:17:00 AM
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My regular garage (usually does great job at great price) is still not solving my "check engine light" and car engine running rough issues...
Symptoms:
Check engine light often comes on, engine runs rough, at times has little power, has stalled (but will start right back up), seems to have some trouble shifting lower gears, & bad acceleration...
Since it is a '94, Advance Auto can NOT run a code check for the "check engine light" I have a tentative scheduled appt. for Cochran Buick service in Monroeville for Friday morn...
Done:
Replaced all plugs and wires & general tuneup
Replaced mast air flow sensor
Replaced gas and air filters
Filled/checked transmission fluid
Any thoughts???
THANKS!!!
George
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May be a vacuum leak. Check around the manifold. Just noticed transmission problem, check vacuum lines to tranny and modulator valve.
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Thanks Mr. Kingman! :)
That was one of the first things I asked the mechanic... He said if it was a vacuum leak, it would run rough ALL the time. It runs rough when you first start it, maybe 10 seconds, but then it is fine most times... It starts like a champ... When not using gas, idling/coasting, engine is smooth... Have not been able to isolate WHEN it only runs rough... :(
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I think Cochran is a waste, the techs at a new car store usually just replace parts, that's what your mechanic did. You need an old school mechanic to do test work, not guess work and if you only need the code read, I have the proper tool and I am in Tarentum. Pm me if you want to borrow it.
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Get me a code and I could probably do a better diagnosis, it sounds like a few issues if I am reading correctly.
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Get me a code and I could probably do a better diagnosis, it sounds like a few issues if I am reading correctly.
I concur with Dicky.
As a slight bonus, whatever is causing your engine to perform poorly may be causing your shifting issues.
George, did your mechanic actually perform a vacuum leak down or smoke test or did he just make that claim? I've seen a few oddball cases where a vacuum leak was present under certain conditions but were not constant; for example, my friends and I chased down a perforated diaphragm in a brake power booster for weeks. It was only problematic periodically so we never thought to pursue a vacuum issue.
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Dicky & 8 whats?,
Since it is a 1994, Advance Auto can't get a code... Should I take it to Cochran and spend close to $100 for a code? Not sure that he did the vacuum leak down or smoke test...
thank s for comments...
George
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check from online automotive forums. Some 1994 vehicles will allow you to check the codes thru a series of flashing check engine light when you jumper 2 pins in the fuse box under the hood.
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If you are near brookline I may be able to pull it for you, or take up Non Prophet if you are closer to him. As far as going to the dealer it is up to you and your wallet.
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George - Your car has OBD I. You can buy an OBD I GM scanner for <$20. The instructions are straight forward. The scanner will give you the code. Once you have the code, then we move forward.
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I know you're in Penn Hills, I would recommend Bernie at Roth Automotive in Verona.
http://www.cartalk.com/pa/verona/125240/roth-automotive (http://www.cartalk.com/pa/verona/125240/roth-automotive)
I've been taking cars to him for 20+ years, he's great and honest.
-j
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I'd bet it's your O-2 sensors are shot. Have that checked and replace with Bosch units.--------Bill
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Sorry George. I forgot to mention that the Throttle Body is all saturated with carbon residue.------Bill
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The computers on them cars like to work sometimes and sometimes no. Gm has a simple test called the tap test. Find the computer usually passenger foot kick panel start the car and tap the computer with a screw driver handle if it changes then it's the computer.
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My Prius is having a somewhat similar issue.
The issue I originally had was that when you started the gas engine it would run rough and make noise but only at a certain idle speed.
It seem to have 3 idle speeds and the middle one is rough.
Took it to a repair shop in Murrysville and I was told I needed a tune up.
So not only did I need new plugs but I needed ignition coils too which ended up costing $900 !
It now runs worse than ever and I just put it in Drive right away to avoid the idle.
I don't think I needed the ignition coils at all.
Car was doing the same thing when I picked it up after the repairs.
The tech looked at it and said "I don't know why it's doing that"
I took the car back in at a later date and they said the valve lifters had to be re-machined at a cost of another $1000.
I said I don't think so and I left.
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All I can offer either of you is sympathy.
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FYI...
Well... an update, after a few more trips to the mechanic (after getting some engine error codes from "non-prophet" - THANKS!).
Wednesday the mechanic told me cylinder no. 4 has low compression, about 70 psi vs. the 150 psi of the other cylinders. Mech. stated he is not going to charge me anything till the problem is fixed. He is still guessing could be about $100-200. Will need to rip apart the engine to check the valve, piston, rings, etc. Hopefully, this will get fixed soon... says he can get to car in May, a little over a month... At least, I can drive the car...
Thanks for reading and as STaL (Mark) says, thanks for the concern/sympathy...
George
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Sorry to be a buzzkill, but $100-200 to fix that problem is highly unlikely.
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I'm sorry to hear that your car's diagnosis. Low compression might be an easy fix but I don't get a good feeling about this. Valve job, head gasket, rings, who knows until he can open it up. Ouch! Good luck George!!
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By the way, what was the code?
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I smell a rebuild.....
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Sorry to be a buzzkill, but $100-200 to fix that problem is highly unlikely.
Ditto. Probably 10x. The moment You let him tear it apart you have no choice.
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Agreed. The only way that a compression loss is fixed for $200 is if the spark plug threads are cracked and can be welded externally. Not common, or likely, especially on that Buick.
I wish you the best and least expensive path to rectify the issue.