Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
Audio Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: raynist on February 04, 2015, 09:29:29 PM
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Have some Klipsch Forte's that need something on the wood to bring back the shine/sheen. Saw Old English Lemon Oil at Ace hardware. Would this be ok to use?
Thanks
Ray
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Good stuff - been using it for years - first on my old walnut ALTECs and Dynacos, and my recent walnut ADC 303AXs.
There is another Old English product called "Scratchcover" for dark woods - consider it a dark oil with particulates that embed in the wood grain that is supposed to hide tiny scratches - meh, so-so.
It stinks for a few days and buffs out easily and scratches are revealed again. Course I was trying to fix the tops of one of the ADCs where the prior/original owner used it as a plant-stand...
Actually works a tad better on those cheap oak-ish kitchen cabinet doors and drawers where only the fronts are wood.
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Thanks for the reply!
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Yep. For oiled (not varnished) finds in good condition, it is my go to. If they are very dirty, I clean with Murphy's Oil Soap first.
The Scratchcover is an inferior version of Howard's Restore a Finish.
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It smells good too, which is a perk. I had to do some heavy-lifting, or else I would have gone the lemon-oil route on the Cornwalls I've got right now.
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Have some Klipsch Forte's that need something on the wood to bring back the shine/sheen. Saw Old English Lemon Oil at Ace hardware. Would this be ok to use?
Thanks
Ray
Horrible and worthless. Just use motor oil, it's about the same damn thing. Do it right, re-oil the cabinets with something like Watco Danish oil.
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Don't mind F1nut, Ray, not only does he usually project his subjective opinion as the only possible answer, but he also lacks any ability to interact in with others in any manner approaching civil.
Any lemon oil works fine. Much, much better than motor oil....
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LOL - thanks Tom.
I used it and it worked great.
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Awesome!
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LOL - thanks Tom.
I used it and it worked great.
No it didn't.
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LOL - thanks Tom.
I used it and it worked great.
No it didn't.
You are right, what was I thinking, it looks like crap....... ::)
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LOL - thanks Tom.
I used it and it worked great.
No it didn't.
Ha!
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I agree with F1, Watco Danish Oil is great. I've finished or cleaned up many a speaker using the stuff.
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I agree with F1, Watco Danish Oil is great. I've finished or cleaned up many a speaker using the stuff.
I don't disagree and I also think there are any number of products that work well, I like the Howard stuff personally.
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Both products are great. For cleanup, use the lemon oil. For restoration, use the danish oil. As for motor oil...synthetic or non-synthetic???
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I'm not familiar with your speakers but if they are veneered go easy on any oil. Its possible to overdo it and eventually the veneer will lift off the base wood. The oil will eventually soak down throught the thin veneer and disolve the glue. I prefer paste wax.
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I agree with F1Nut that something like Watco Danish oil is your best bet. F1 is a professional wood worker, restore, etc. He has always given me great advice on wood refinishing and electronics. He has strong opinions but he usually is right.
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I haven't tried the Watco, but will give it a try on a pair of KLHs that need some serious cosmetic attention. For general cleaning and upkeep, I like Milsek
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I bought some Old English with lemon oil for my Carver ALS Silvers. I think they're solid oak. They're in excellent condition but I thought it would be a good idea to treat the wood. For years I used Liquid Gold on my JBL L100s that I bought new in the 70s and they still look great. My older son has them now and still uses Liquid Gold on them.
They are oak veneer finished with a clear coat, in this case lacquer. As such you cannot treat the wood as the lacquer will not allow what is nothing more than an oily (refined petroleum oil) mineral spirits solvent with lemon scent (no lemon oil) added to penetrate the clear coat. That product simply sits on the surface and evaporates within a few days. Bottom line, it's a complete waste of money and time.
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Don't mind F1nut, Ray, not only does he usually project his subjective opinion as the only possible answer, but he also lacks any ability to interact in with others in any manner approaching civil.
Any lemon oil works fine. Much, much better than motor oil....
Nothing subjective about it, it's a fact presented by a professional. As for the rest of your comment.....would you like to buy a vowel?
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I'm not familiar with your speakers but if they are veneered go easy on any oil. Its possible to overdo it and eventually the veneer will lift off the base wood. The oil will eventually soak down throught the thin veneer and disolve the glue. I prefer paste wax.
Interesting, didn't realize I could over do it.
May try the Howard feed wax next time.
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Both products are great. For cleanup, use the lemon oil. For restoration, use the danish oil. As for motor oil...synthetic or non-synthetic???
Speaking of motor oils - being a vintage site and all - anyone remember ARCO gas stations, the old Atlantic gas stations? Remember their ARCO graphite motor oil? Only oil I recall that looked dirtier out of the can than what you would find in the pan...
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I bought some Old English with lemon oil for my Carver ALS Silvers. I think they're solid oak. They're in excellent condition but I thought it would be a good idea to treat the wood. For years I used Liquid Gold on my JBL L100s that I bought new in the 70s and they still look great. My older son has them now and still uses Liquid Gold on them.
They are oak veneer finished with a clear coat, in this case lacquer. As such you cannot treat the wood as the lacquer will not allow what is nothing more than an oily (refined petroleum oil) mineral spirits solvent with lemon scent (no lemon oil) added to penetrate the clear coat. That product simply sits on the surface and evaporates within a few days. Bottom line, it's a complete waste of money and time.
My ALS Silvers are not veneers and do not have a clear coat. They are solid natural finish wood.
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They couldn't find oak trees that wide and I didn't see any glue joints, so it has to be veneer. It may not look like it to you, but it has a clear coat finish.
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Speaking of motor oils - being a vintage site and all - anyone remember ARCO gas stations, the old Atlantic gas stations? Remember their ARCO graphite motor oil? Only oil I recall that looked dirtier out of the can than what you would find in the pan...
I remember.
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I have a pair of Amazing Plats in oak and they are veneer I know this as on the back of one baffle it is starting to lift.
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I bought some Old English with lemon oil for my Carver ALS Silvers. I think they're solid oak. They're in excellent condition but I thought it would be a good idea to treat the wood. For years I used Liquid Gold on my JBL L100s that I bought new in the 70s and they still look great. My older son has them now and still uses Liquid Gold on them.
They are oak veneer finished with a clear coat, in this case lacquer. As such you cannot treat the wood as the lacquer will not allow what is nothing more than an oily (refined petroleum oil) mineral spirits solvent with lemon scent (no lemon oil) added to penetrate the clear coat. That product simply sits on the surface and evaporates within a few days. Bottom line, it's a complete waste of money and time.
According to the Carver owner's manual there are two versions: genuine oak & black lacquer
"Genuine Oak Model": Your speakers are finished with a natural oil and may be treated like any fine furniture. We suggest occasional cleaning/polishing with a fine furniture oil or cleaner such as Pledge.
"Black Lacquer Model": The speaker panel is finished in high quality polyurethane acrylic enamel which is as durable as it is beautiful. The high gloss finish requires approximately four to six weeks to final cure. With proper care, the finish can be maintained almost indefinitely.
The finish is similar to that used on fine automobiles, and should be treated accordingly.
It then gives some additional warnings pertaining to exposure to sunlight etc. It also goes on to explain that these lacquered panels are constructed of high density composite material which can be dented, gouged, or chipped with sufficient pressure. Scratches and gouged, however can often be successfully removed. Use either a soft cloth our a commercially-designed cloth for all polishing, waxing and cleaning. Other materials may scratch the finish.
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According to the Carver owner's manual there are two versions: genuine oak & black lacquer
"Genuine Oak Model": Your speakers are finished with a natural oil and may be treated like any fine furniture. We suggest occasional cleaning/polishing with a fine furniture oil or cleaner such as Pledge.
Obviously Bob is mistaken.
(Since I was accused of trolling before, I thought I would actually troll once so you can see what it looks like.)
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No way that there is a lacquer finish. I'm adding to my bucket list that I can post something without controversy. Anyway I have bigger problems to deal with so I give up. I'm outta here. I'd rather spend my time listening to music anyway...
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Locking before the thread gets totally nerfed.