Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
Buy Sell Trade Audio Equipment => Home Audio Equipment in the Burgh => Topic started by: Sir Thrift-a-Lot on September 04, 2015, 06:00:56 PM
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They ran for four years on Cinemax. I had never heard of it, but evidently they filmed here in Pittsburgh. Today I went to their wrap sale, getting rid of props, costumes, etc.. My daughter got over $300 worth of clothing with the tags still on it for $50. All I got were these two old receivers for $3 each...
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/markshan/Banshee_zpsdo6xyuls.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/markshan/media/Banshee_zpsdo6xyuls.jpg.html)
Won't get to test 'em until tomorrow, but for that price.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/gms/5205448938.html (http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/gms/5205448938.html)
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if only we could get a wrap sale from a jack nicholson movie :P
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That show was renting vehicles off me. I hate that it was the last season. It was nice, easy money.
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The Scott is perfect. Like doesn't even need DeOxit perfect. The Hitachi is dead. Like no lights no sound of any kind dead. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a blown fuse inside. Even if I don't, The Scott would still be a scroe for $6.
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I've owned some older Scott stuff. Always performed well. I still have two sets of Scott speakers. S186 and s196 models. smooth, neutral, very enjoyable speakers...flew well under the radar.
Good score Mark. I need to follow you around...you get some great excited at thrifts, etc!!
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So, I have a Hitachi SR-604 that was DOA. No external fuse holder, so I opened it up and sure enough the fuse was blown. What was interesting is that the meter I used to check continuity is part of a kit, which also includes one of those AC detector probes. So, the detector was sitting probably 4" from the silver face of the receiver. I replaced the fuse and as soon as I plugged the unit back in, that detector went nuts. I though that was odd but proceeded anyway. I hit the power button and the unit lit up for maybe two seconds before blowing the new fuse.
Upon closer inspection, I noticed the board was singed around all four pins of one of two S4VB rectifiers. Upon closer inspection from the top, I saw that this rectifier had stress fractures in the plastic, like it had exploded from the inside. I also noted that the good one had a red dot on it, but the blown one's dot had turned black.
First question: The component is labeled "S4VB" only. All of the replacements I am seeing are labeled S4VB-5, or -10, or -20 or even -60. How do I know which one I can use? Does it even matter?
Second, are there likely components upstream that would have caused the failure that I should look for? Likewise, are there downstream components that would have likely been destroyed when that component went out?
Lastly, is the rectifier alone a reasonable explanation for the behavior of the AC detector, or should I be looking for additional issues? TIA.
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From a quick Google search it appears that the suffix just indicates working voltage. The "4" looks like it indicates its a 4 amp bridge rectifier and the -xx indicates max working voltage.
S4vb20 is a 200vac rectifier and a s4vb60 is a 600 volt recitifier. If this logic is correct substituting a higher working volktage will have no ill affect. The burnt board is troublesome. Did someone install a new part incorrectly in the past? Possible. A schematic would be a huge help. Look for any shorted filter caps. Burnt resistors, etc. Also it appears that this is a class g/h amp so it has dual voltage rails. So that complicates things a bit too. Carfeully inspect all components. I was had an amp that ran hot as hell. I found a super thin strand of speaker wire fell inside and was shorting something out. It worked fine...sounded fine, but ran very very hot.
I removed this stray strand and its been perfect ever since. I wish my old electronics skills were still with me but I've forgotten way too much. If I had to hazard any type of guess I would start with output devices. A shorted output transistor will blow fuses and usually damage other components as they die suddenly.
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Great info, at. Thanks. How does one check OPTs? BTW, I fould a schematic at HFE and it says "S4VB-20" so I ordered one. Pretty cheap, so if it dies right away again, I'll start testing OPTs.