Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
Audio Discussion => DIY => Topic started by: OldiesButGoodies on July 05, 2016, 02:58:12 PM
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Decided to give a Partsexpress subwoofer bundle a try - for 200 bucks and some sweat equity not much to lose and a lot to gain from trying to smooth out the dips in response from 20 to 90 hertz in the cave. For your entertainment some pictures of the build and results.
The cabinet comes like this - precut by some computer-controlled device that makes extremely precise cuts:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7321/28109798015_bc0a94bb3d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JPY4BV)IMG_1247 (https://flic.kr/p/JPY4BV) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
Goes together like a jigsaw puzzle:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7244/27357323124_08924903e9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HFtr3U)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HFtr3U) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7585/27356545893_5d1b828a3c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HFps1n)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HFps1n) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7302/28007313982_29e9d849d0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JEUNFQ)IMG_1275 (https://flic.kr/p/JEUNFQ) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7301/27829729140_137a609399_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCUd)IMG_1280 (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCUd) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
I chose to veneer it, not necessary - the finish is smooth enough that you can use textured paint to do it.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7378/28007314772_15df245dfd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JEUNVs)IMG_1282 (https://flic.kr/p/JEUNVs) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7428/28007315362_e3dcdb678a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JEUP6C)IMG_1314 (https://flic.kr/p/JEUP6C) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7367/28109801025_1454764648_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JPY5vP)IMG_1329 (https://flic.kr/p/JPY5vP) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(the pic shows I need to do some minor stain touch up in the veneer-to-baffle area)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7295/28109801645_b8a7942f91_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JPY5Gv)IMG_1346 (https://flic.kr/p/JPY5Gv) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
The combined response, collaborating with my Rhytmik FV15HP, met my needs (crazy suck-outs at 30 and 80 hertz gone):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7440/27829728480_1f5a026719_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCGQ)limiterOnDaytonRythmik80Hz (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCGQ) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
The Dayton sub runs out of power at 25 hz (it is a sealed box) but in-room it gets help from the side wall to drop lower. On the upside it is very precise, tight. Building these things is, of course, a blast. The Gorilla glue is a big help compared to regular wood glue, recommended.
I am driving the sub with one channel from an iNuke 3000DSP, using a couple of PEQ filters to smooth things out in that channel using DSP. The other channel is driving Dayton bass shakers that I turn on for movies.
Regards,
Pepe
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Forgot to add specifics about the 10" driver - a Dayton Ultimax 10" dual voice coil sub:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7716/28109798815_606000c92b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JPY4RH)IMG_1249 (https://flic.kr/p/JPY4RH) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7636/27829728630_ccf0200182_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCKq)IMG_1248 (https://flic.kr/p/JpdCKq) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7371/28032972871_78c9f211d7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JHbjbt)IMG_1320 (https://flic.kr/p/JHbjbt) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7296/28032972511_4eeaa810f6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JHbj5g)IMG_1321 (https://flic.kr/p/JHbj5g) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
The voice coils are wired in series to get the impedance up to an amp-friendly 4 ohms:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7404/28032972371_71a3768bec_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JHbj2R)IMG_1325 (https://flic.kr/p/JHbj2R) by Jose Sifontes (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jsifontes/), on Flickr
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That woofer looks very beefy. Always reading good things about the Dayton speakers, but you never know if it's coming from someone thinks Sounddesign or Aiwa sound great or a more serious listener like yourself.
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Nice looking work, Pepe, glad it helped smooth the room out as well.
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Those Ultimax are killer subwoofer drivers. I had designed a huge box, 4'x8'x12" for a PAIR of the 15" Ultimax. They sub was used as a couch platform for second-row seating. It was phenomenal. Nice build!
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thanks all... I am very happy with the performance of this Dayton sub so far, need to monitor to see if it is durable (will watch the Lian Neeson Taken trilogy as a test 8)). On the other hand, if it is going to fail it probably would happen during the first few hours of coil-heating. Will see.
On a separate but related topic: check out this cool design for a hideaway transmission line sub:
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/Ax%20Hideaway.pdf (http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/Ax%20Hideaway.pdf)
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On a separate but related topic: check out this cool design for a hideaway transmission line sub:
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/Ax%20Hideaway.pdf (http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/Ax%20Hideaway.pdf)
They have it hiding under a couch, but I bet it would be an awesome riser for an Expedit filled with records. All that weight would really anchor it.