Vintage HiFi Audio Forum
Audio Discussion => DIY => Topic started by: TNRabbit on October 20, 2010, 04:56:26 AM
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Thought I would post this here; I started on this project & have it posted on other forums. This is a LONG thread, so bear with me...
I pulled out the solder iron & bypassed the passive crossovers in my AL-IIIs today; it took about 2 hours all told to get the Ashley crossover installed (what a snakes nest behind the unit now with 5.1 setup!!) and unsolder the x-over and solder the speakers back inline with the fuses*. :D :D
*Should I be using a lower rated fuse now without the crossovers installed??
About 15 seconds after I finished & was connecting the last speaker to the amp, a major storm blew through and knocked out our power for about 2 hours!! >:(
The power came back on about the time & had decided to just go to bed, so I ran upstairs & got everything prepped, turned it on, adjusted the crossover and discovered....
....
....
...
...
...
...
I HATED the sound coming out of the ribbons (nasal-ish sounding), and the bass was weak! :(
SO, I did some playing around with the levels, gave a little bit of treble boost via the TG-IV, and it's now sounding MUCH better, although I realize I'm not going to be happy until I get the Rane parametric equalizers in place (20 minutes left on the auction as I type this!) & shape the sound a little. First impression is the upper midrange is boosted a LOT with this direct connection, but I can also tell a lot of power has been freed up from the amp. The AL-III x-overs are real power hogs~
So far, things are sound pretty damned good ;D ;D ;D
More to come...................... :D
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Auction just ended on the Rane crossovers; got two of 'em, consecutive serial numbers, in really good shape for $122.00~ WOO HOO! \:D/ \:D/ \:D/
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/RanePE-15Right.jpg?t=1277266384)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/RanePE-15Left.jpg?t=1277266467)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/RanePE-15Front.jpg?t=1277266467)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/RanePE-15Back.jpg?t=1277266467)
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Pics from the evening festivities:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02754.jpg?t=1277269554)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02747.jpg?t=1277269554)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02748.jpg?t=1277269554)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02749.jpg?t=1277269554)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02751.jpg?t=1277269554)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02752.jpg?t=1277269554)
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Interesting, they just sound "faster" and tighter than before...like they've been released from some sort of sonic molasses....??
Not sure what I mean by "faster", but that's the only term I can come up with to describe it~
On an unrelated note, this will soon occupy a spot over the top of my stack:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/Sunfirelight.jpg)
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FYI: Right now-just based on what I hear, I've got the woofers bumped up about +2.5 (not sure if that's dB or what, but that's on the Ashley's scale) and the ribbons -1.0 for level, then the crossover is set to 200 Hz with a 6 dB/octave slope (Linkwitz-Riley filter).
I think I've found out why it sounds tighter/faster:
"with an active crossover, the power amplifiers are directly connected to the speaker drivers, thereby maximizing amplifier damping control of the speaker voice coil, reducing consequences of dynamic changes in driver electrical characteristics, all of which are likely to improve the transient response of the system"
(from Wikipedia)
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Active Bi-Amping FAQ for anyone wondering what the hell it is I'm doing:
“What is Active Bi-Amping?”
Active bi-amping uses one amplifier for low frequencies and another for mid/high frequencies—per audio channel. This is done via the use of an active crossover unit which is inserted between the preamplifier and power amplifiers.
“What are the advantages of active bi-amping?”
1) It provides much greater driver control than a passive crossover/full-range-loaded amplifier configurations.
2) It provides a better load for your amplifiers to drive, and an effective gain in each amplifier’s effective output. It will provide lower amplifier-originated intermodulation distortion (IMD).
3) It provides much greater protection of your tweeter/midrange drivers under clipping/overload conditions.
4) It provides the ability to use less expensive amplifier designs for each driver.
5) It provides for time alignment of drivers within a single speaker (a “must have” capability)
6) It provides for better crossover performance in both amplitude AND phase in the crossover region for smoother crossover performance, including more stable soundstage imaging vs. frequency.
7) It provides stability of crossover performance relative to passive crossover drift during and immediately after under high-load speaker output conditions, i.e., it maintains electrical output linearity under heavy load conditions.
8) It requires lower-quality wire/connectors than a similarly configured passive crossover/full-range amplifier configuration.
9) It allows on-the-fly changes in crossover frequency, EQ and channel gain settings to support changes in your setup configuration, i.e., facilitating the fine-tuning use of tools like Room EQ Wizard [REW], replacing individual drivers, speaker position changes, and adding channels for playback (2.0, 5.1, 7.1, etc.).
“What are the disadvantages of bi-amping?”
1) It requires two power amplifier channels per speaker (with associated wires/connectors).
2) It requires an active crossover unit.
“What is an ‘active crossover’?”
1) An active crossover provides separation of frequencies of the incoming pre-amplifier output signals, breaking each upstream channel into two downstream channels (a woofer channel and mid-range/tweeter channel).
2) It provides higher-quality equalization (“EQ”) capability for each channel.
3) Digital crossovers typically provide for delay to allow for time alignment of the drivers within a single speaker. (This is a similar function to an AV Processer that time aligns speaker-to-speaker in a 5.1/7.1 array.)
“Do I need to disconnect my speakers’ passive crossovers from my drivers?"
Yes. At least the woofer (or low frequency driver) must be disconnected from the passive crossover to permit bi-amping. If your speakers are 3-way (i.e., woofer, midrange, tweeter in each cabinet), then you may retain the passive crossover between the midrange and the tweeter if using bi-amping (…but for tri-amping, all drivers must be disconnected from the passive crossover networks)
Can I use ‘passive bi-amping’?”
Passive bi-amping does not bring the benefits of active bi-amping, only the disadvantages of extra cables and connectors. Generally, it may not worth the expense of the extra amplifier, depending on your speaker power requirements. In particular, passive bi-amping does not provide for delay adjustment or filter/EQ parameter flexibility.
What active crossover brands/units should I use?
Many manufacturers make active crossovers, including ElectroVoice, Yamaha, Ashley, Behringer, Rane, Pass Labs, Marchand, Bryston, DEQX, etc. Prices go from around $150(US) to many thousands of dollars. Price is generally commensurate with sonic performance…
Have I seen active crossovers used in configurations other than a active crossover box?
Probably--the "powered subwoofer" channel found on most AV Receivers/Processors is a limited example of a for-purpose active crossover channel (i.e., mono bass channel). Usual features include gain control (at the integrated subwoofer/power amplifer unit), user selectable crossover frequencies, and sometimes Geometric GEQ/PEQ (graphical and parametric equalizer) filters built into the AVR/AVP.
Delay adjustment for each speaker channel is usually included in the AVR processor functionality to correct for speaker distance room placement variances. Additionally, an "Audyssey"-like feature on some AVRs/AVPs features a built-in real-time analyzer (RTA) to help the user set up their speakers in a room environment.
Also: http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm (http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm)
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Uh-oh.......
went upstairs to shut the system down....one ribbon sounded...."down"....
I turned it up a little & it developed into a full-bore distortion-fest. So either one of the channels has gone on something in my stack or I've blown a ribbon...
Crap.
:(
-----------------------------------
False alarm~
After much careful troubleshooting & piddling around, I tracked it down to a poor connection on one of the screw-in bananas going from the PS Audio speaker cables into the speaker. It was loose almost to the point of falling off (must've been the pounding I'd given it today).
(http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/?action-view¤t=2010-10-10_10-09-57_70.jpg)
That was a warning call to me so I'm going to tread more lightly, wait on my EQs, & first thing tomorrow get some 2 & 3 amp fuses until I figure out which ones are appropriate. Fuses are one HELL of a lot cheaper than ribbons~
I know my stuff pretty darned well & NEVER run my speakers into distortion. When I'm testing the limits, I always have a finger on the mute button & more often than not on the power button as well. I really didn't think I'd taken them to the ragged edge and I really don't like the way things sound there, anyway.
Anyway, I'll be much more judicious with power application from now on...
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Got the Rane PE-15 EQs into place with judicious appplications of MORE XLR balanced cables...what a mess of cabling behind my unit:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02768.jpg)
At first, the Ranes exhibited an INCREDIBLE amount of noise; I mean I was almost ready to take them out & forget this entire project, it was so bad. After they had a chance to warm up & I worked the scratchiness out of the pots & bypass switches, things got a LOT better. I'm going to have to pull them & liberally apply De-Oxit to everything....I think that will clear things up considerably.
[size=150]I am REALLY liking the whole active route, a LOT. I highly recommend it. [/size]
Special thanks to mbskeam (Mike) who is building me a custom pair of stainless steel cover plates to replace the original crossover plates on the back of my AL-IIIs. \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/
As far as I'm concerned this is going ABOVE & BEYOND what anyone could realistically ask for. =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
So, here's what the entire mess looks like now; sorry about the crappy pictures:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02764.jpg?t=1278307004)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02769.jpg?t=1278307054)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02762.jpg?t=1278307064)
I'm going to be looking for a way to pack this all away in a rack as it's getting a little TALL for the desk....that's my next project~
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This is a recent addition, too:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02758.jpg?t=1278308720)
I ordered new binding posts & fuse holders to go with the new panels Mike is making for me. Binding posts are the same ones BillD has used, from Parts Express:
(http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/091-630_s.jpg)
The fuse holders are the knurled-knob type vice screwdriver-removable ones currently in place (although I ordered a new set of those as well, just in case). However, I also bought a set of 3 amp circuit breakers to try out:
(http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/PHILMOREB7003.jpg)
Push Button 3A Circuit Breaker
Philmore # B7003
Same as GC 35-2103
* Maximum DC Voltage: 50 VDC
* Maximum AC Voltage: 250 VAC
* Mounting Hole: .500"
* Push to Reset
* .250" Quick Connect
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The rear panels will have the original mounting hole configuration so I can utilize the original screw holes, but I'm going to use these type of blind nuts with same diameter bolts --- the MDF doesn't like repeated insertion/removal of screws :D :
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/Blindnuts.jpg?t=1278500434)
I'm also going to try the physical wave guide form mod for the ribbon cavity resonance (handled with a notch filter in the passive crossover)--direct from Bob Carver's mouth to my ears! The red areas are the areas added:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/RibbonPeak_NotchFix_final-1.jpg?t=1278491340)
I have "Room EQ Wizard" (free online) to use in the final tweaking. Looks to be a decent software package--just what I need.
I'm also going to try this: http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/download.htm (http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/download.htm)
I'm a little apprehensive about the whole testing/analyzing thing. I might learn something (or not) that puts this outside my abilities...
I received my binding posts & fuse holders yesterday; still waiting on the circuit breakers. I'll post pics later today--they are quite nice~
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Rane history FYI for anyone following this thread:
The Rane Story
Rane Corporation History & Philosophy
Rane Corporation, founded and incorporated in 1981 in Washington State, is a privately held company. The owners all previously worked together in middle management positions at Phase Linear Corporation, a high-end consumer electronics company. With this background, they pooled over 40 years of combined audio experience to create Rane Corporation. Owners became separate department heads based upon their expertise. This organization created an unusually strong structure, since all department heads had a unique owner's perspective in making it succeed.
The company name was selected from an anagram created from the common letters of the first and last names of the original founders. This particular anagram was selected because it was short, easy-to-say and remember, and they liked the double-entendre possibilities implying wet-links to the Northwest.
The essential ingredients in Rane's successful philosophy are knowledge, integrity, pride and common sense. At Rane, people learn to treat people the way they would want to be treated, to design & build products the way they would want theirs designed & built, and that when something goes wrong, you react quickly and decisively to correct it. It is an old fashioned, common sense way to run a business, based on mutual trust and respect.
Rane started out with four products aimed at small bands, designed to make their live performances better. At the forefront was a unique 12-input, 6-output matrix mixer (MM 12) used to create six different monitor mixes for driving stage monitor speakers. The idea was to help performers hear themselves better. Up to that time, either the small group had no monitors at all, or they were all driven by the same mix. What Rane provided was new, compactly designed, affordable tools to help solve the many problems of on-stage monitoring. Complementing the matrix mixer was the industry's first 6-channel power amplifier (MA 6), and a companion 6-channel headphone amplifier for rehearsal (HC 6). The fourth initial product was a unique combo unit, consisting of a 1/3-octave graphic equalizer and a simple realtime analyzer (RE 27), aimed at giving the performing musician a handy, easy-to-use tool for improving their sound in all venues. In doing all this, Rane established a new price-point for performance, quality and reliability. Rane products were priced well below the top high-end equipment yet outperformed and outlasted them, but were still priced significantly above the low-end products -- thus creating a new middle ground.
A noteworthy testament to Rane's design significance and reliability reputation, is that in their first two years of production, Rane designed and shipped eight new products -- five of which are still in production today.
Rane Corporation today is an established innovator in providing problem-solving professional audio tools, affordably priced, with unequalled reliability.
Rane Corporate Milestones
1981: Incorporated in Washington State, USA
1982: 1st Constant-Q EQ & 1st EQ/RTA combo unit - the RE 27
1983: AES paper: 4th-order state-variable Linkwitz-Riley crossovers
1984: 1st Linkwitz-Riley crossovers: AC 22 & AC 23
1986: AES Journal publishes Rane's landmark Constant-Q Graphic EQ paper
1986: 1st Interpolating Constant-Q EQ
1987: Rane's 1st digital audio product: AD 13 Audio Delay
1988: Publish PI 14 Pseudoacoustic Infector data sheet
1989: 1st 8th-order L-R Crossover
1989: 1st MIDI-Programmable EQs
1989: Develop Accelerated-SlopeTM EQ
1990: Patent: Constant-Q Topology
1991: Patent: Accelerated-Slope EQ
1991: 1st THX Home Cinema EQ: THX 44
1993: 1st Dolby Time-LinkTM pro audio delay
1994: Home Cinema Products launched
1995: PAQRAT® Digital Audio Recording System
1995: 1st RW 232 software product: RPE 228 Equalizer
1995: Launch website & Pro Audio Reference
1996: Mojo Series introduced
1997: Rane 1st DSP digital audio product: RPM 26
1997: Rane 1st teleconferencing product: ECS
1998: Patent: teleconferencing product
1998: New standard in DJ performing mixer: TTM 54
1999: Rane 1st Ethernet product: Via 10
2000: Rane 1st CobraNet products: NM 84 & NM 48
2001: Twenty-Year anniversary
2001: First magnetic fader DJ performing mixer: TTM 56
2002: Drag Net 100% drag and drop DSP
2003: DEQ 60 Perfect-Q Graphic Equalizer
2004: Patents: Magnetic Fader and Acoustic Echo Canceller
2004: SeratoTM Scratch LIVE digital audio computer interface
2005: SeratoTM MP 4 digital audio file mixer
2005: Digital Amplifier: MA 4
2006: Scratch LIVE Mixer: TTM 57SL
2006: Twenty-five Year Anniversary
We may be reached via telephone during normal business hours (8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Pacific Standard Time) at 425-355-6000. You may fax us any time at 425-347-7757.
Our postal mailing address is: Rane Corporation, 10802 47th Avenue West, Mukilteo, WA, 98275, USA
If you prefer hard copies of literature in the mail, you may email or call us at 425-551-1833.
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New binding posts & fuse holders:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02770.jpg?t=1278619580)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02773.jpg?t=1278619580)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02775.jpg?t=1278619580)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02774.jpg?t=1278619580)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02772.jpg?t=1278665375)
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Rear panel blank:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/AL-III_Rear_Panel_blank.jpg?t=1278646006)
and the finished product ready to ship:
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a96/mbskeam/carver%20speakers/HPIM1394.jpg)
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(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02790.jpg?t=1279269328)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02788.jpg?t=1279269327)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02789.jpg?t=1279269327)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02786.jpg?t=1279269327)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02785.jpg?t=1279269327)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02784.jpg?t=1279269327)
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Got one speaker done tonight; what a FREAKIN' ordeal! I learned a couple of things, not the least of which is to drill out the mounting holes & install the blind nuts FIRST~ the side nuts required some modification in the form of bending as they sit right at the edge of the 45 degree angle that goes from back to side/back on the AL-IIIs...
Started off looking like this:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02793.jpg?t=1279685548)
And the end result looks like this (pardon the fingerprints):
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02834.jpg?t=1279685623)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02833.jpg?t=1279685623)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02832.jpg?t=1279685623)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02831.jpg?t=1279685623)
But FIRST, you have to start HERE--original hole:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02810.jpg?t=1279685761)
Drilled new holes to match the 6/32 stainless steel tapered-head bolts (1 inch)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02829.jpg?t=1279685623)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02830.jpg?t=1279685623)
Sized & cut some thin foam seal (originally made for lining a truck tool box) to prevent air leaks/farting around the panel:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02807.jpg?t=1279685857)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02808.jpg?t=1279685857)
Began de-soldering the wiring to the crossover & speakers:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02797.jpg?t=1279685970)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02798.jpg?t=1279685970)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02799.jpg?t=1279685970)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02800.jpg?t=1279685970)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02801.jpg?t=1279685970)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02802.jpg?t=1279686012)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02804.jpg?t=1279686012)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02804.jpg?t=1279686012)
Went up to 12 gauge monoprice oxygen-free copper wiring from the original, wimpy (& NOT copper!) wiring:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02805.jpg?t=1279686012)
Heat sinks in place (made a HUGE difference in heat transferred to the wire insulation & binding post plastic parts:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02806.jpg?t=1279686012)
^^^ I ended up soldering banana plugs to use with the woofer inside the cabinet as it was too difficult to try to solder in there. The monoprice bananas worked out GREAT & fit right into the woofer connectors (3/4 " on center).
I had to drill out the holes in the binding posts to get the 12 gauge wire through them:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02812.jpg?t=1279686397)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02813.jpg?t=1279686274)
UGLY solder joints w/heat sinks in place:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02814.jpg?t=1279686483)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02816.jpg?t=1279686483)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02817.jpg?t=1279686483)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02818.jpg?t=1279686483)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02821.jpg?t=1279686527)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02822.jpg?t=1279686527)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02823.jpg?t=1279686527)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02827.jpg?t=1279686608)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02828.jpg?t=1279686608)
A shot of the port tube:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02826.jpg?t=1279686658)
It works! Couldn't crank it tonight as it was too late, but will do so tomorrow afternoon~
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As promised; all the pics are at this link...I got tired of linking them all~
http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/?start=all (http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/?start=all)
I'll import a couple:
The Rane guts:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02886.jpg?t=1280116420)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02884.jpg?t=1280116467)
Finished product:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02879.jpg?t=1280116577)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02877.jpg?t=1280116627)
New system configuration
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02905.jpg?t=1280116707)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02906.jpg?t=1280116707)
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ne of the Rane's had been hot; looked like this under the caps:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02895.jpg?t=1280117380)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02894.jpg?t=1280117448)
--------------------------------
At first, no sound. A few minutes of troubleshooting (of course, AFTER everything was put back together--GRRRR!).....
I had a couple of cables going into the wrong slot~ fixed~
Sounding good!
I used the DeOxit spray. It's impossible to wipe out the switches & pots, but I sprayed them, worked the pot/switch for a few minutes, then followed up with the GOLD. I used Q-tips for the connectors, wiped them well, let it sit, then wiped them off & used the GOLD as a follow up/protectant on everything.
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Oh baby :-" check out those Minimus 7 feet on my makeshift rack~ :lol: 8) 8)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02906.jpg)
-----------------------------------
I've determined the original caps went bad on one of the Rane EQs & the PO(s) did a hack job replacement. Looks like hell, but no issues with it working properly~
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02894.jpg?t=1280117448)
-----------------------------------
Sneak peek:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/th_MOV02911.jpg) (http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/?action=view¤t=MOV02911.mp4)
The battery on the camera died or there would have been more....
I don't know why that turned out so dark...
Here's some more:
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/th_MOV02912.jpg) (http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/?action=view¤t=MOV02912.mp4)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/th_MOV02915.jpg) (http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/?action=view¤t=MOV02915.mp4)
That 1812 Overture overmodulated way bad on the camcorder~
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I STILL haven't gotten a long enough cable to run the room EQ software on this setup, yet.....
I need to get on that~
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LOOK OUT TOM!!! RABBIT IS ON A POST BUILDING SPREE!!! :o :P :P :P
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LOOK OUT TOM!!! RABBIT IS ON A POST BUILDING SPREE!!! :o :P :P :P
No.....just contributing to the fray~ :-*
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A very cool and well documented process. Thanks for sharing.
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LOOK OUT TOM!!! RABBIT IS ON A POST BUILDING SPREE!!! :o :P :P :P
No.....just contributing to the fray~ :-*
Just kiddin... :-*...maybe one day I'll get the nerve to go active!!!
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I love what you did to your ALIII's. We need a road trip to MD to take a listen!
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I love what you did to your ALIII's. We need a road trip to MD to take a listen!
Just give a a few day's notice & come on down!
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For those who want to know, I replaced my original stock woofers with Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 car subwoofers. They are NOT the new "VC" models that are currently sold. The older models were good down to 18 hz but the new ones are only rated to 25 hz & the older model had a sensitivity of 94 db, versus 87 for the newer model. They come in either single or dual voice coil models. The dual VC is more robust, but more difficult to work with as you can only connect them in parallel for 2 ohm overall impedance or in series for 8 ohm overall impedance. The original woofers were 4 ohm. The only good way around this is to bi-amp the dual VC woofers with a separate stereo amp for each woofer with one channel to each VC.
The easiest route, and the one I took, is to go with the single VC woofer & connect as normal. These are the closest to the original woofer I've found & improve the bass significantly over the stock woofer.
old model:
(http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/108/h108PER101-b.jpeg)
new model, with removable pole piece:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31C5gXb72bL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
(http://www.bigdtech.com/sell/images/infinity_12vq_sub.jpg)
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How have the 3A breakers worked out?
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I love what you did to your ALIII's. We need a road trip to MD to take a listen!
How about a mini CF in April?
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How have the 3A breakers worked out?
Only popped one once. They are SO MUCH more efficient without the passive crossovers it's not even funny. They get SCARY loud~ :o
I love what you did to your ALIII's. We need a road trip to MD to take a listen!
How about a mini CF in April?
Why wait until April? :D
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This is the time of year I get crushed at the shop on a daily basis. The slow down starts in April. It would also allow the Carver geeks up here to plan and get on the same page. Just a thought.
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Sounds like a plan.
Ok, who the heck is OCCD?
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I love what you did to your ALIII's. We need a road trip to MD to take a listen!
How about a mini CF in April?
Wonder if I could make that??? HUMMMMMM...get me a date!!!! 8) 8) 8)
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Sounds like a plan.
Ok, who the heck is OCCD?
OCCD is who you know on the Carver forum as beemers417. He has multiple personalities.
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Ok, who the heck is OCCD?
Gunter the cigar smoking wonder dog and his pet beemers417 :-*
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I thought maybe that's who you were~
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Great thread Gary! I'll bet your AL-III's sound fantastic! Thanks for posting and welcome to the Forum!
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I agree this thread is an instant classic. The photography was excellent - what camera and lens did you use? Really good macro photography. Impressive to see someone with the alls to tackle something like this. Where did you source the cylinders used to separate components from? (see picture below)
Thanks!
Pepe (OBG)
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I agree this thread is an instant classic. The photography was excellent - what camera and lens did you use? Really good macro photography. Impressive to see someone with the alls to tackle something like this. Where did you source the cylinders used to separate components from? (see picture below)
Thanks!
Pepe (OBG)
Thank you~
Camera was just an older Sony digital camcorder, but it has the great ability to focus to @ 3 mm!
The cylinders are called AVRisers & are sold by Rick Ott from the CarverAudio forum. Here's a link to his web site:'
http://avrisers.com/order.aspx (http://avrisers.com/order.aspx)
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Rabbits are common - especially in TN. I am down on all TN guys this week as they failed to stomp SC this past weekend on the football field.
On the other hand, TNRabbit has 2 systems. One he tinkers on at his place, and the other is on my deck.
;D ;D :P ;D ;D
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I found symmetrical leading aircraft wing edges available in balsa wood for SUPER cheap (under $2 each) & ordered several in both 1/2" & 3/4" sizes to build my waveform guides to correct the notch resonance. \:D/ I'll shape to fit & paint them black to match the ribbons:
(http://www.specializedbalsa.com/i/products/ltailerons/symmetrical_leading_edge.jpg)
I'll post pics when I get them done!
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I found symmetrical leading aircraft wing edges available in balsa wood for SUPER cheap (under $2 each) & ordered several in both 1/2" & 3/4" sizes to build my waveform guides to correct the notch resonance. \:D/ I'll shape to fit & paint them black to match the ribbons:
(http://www.specializedbalsa.com/i/products/ltailerons/symmetrical_leading_edge.jpg)
I'll post pics when I get them done!
Flying speakers!!!! WTF next!!!!! :o :o :o
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....I'm working on VTOL capabilities next, Wayne~ ;D
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Someone asked for it, so here goes:
Before/After Review:
I guess I'd have to say the main difference is CLARITY. Cymbals are crystal-clear; the "edge" of instruments shows through--saxaphone, trumpet, etc. Stringed instruments& awesome voices sound so good on great recordings it could just make your cry. The closest I can call it is a "graininess" that was there before & now isn't. Before, if I played at moderately loud levels, it would sound better after about 30 minutes, but never as good as now. My guess is the caps & in-line passive crossover components were aged & in need of replacement. If I had all new passive crossovers, PERHAPS the difference between passive & active wouldn't be as great. Too late to tell for certain now~
On top of that, a lot more headroom is available from the amplifiers; I give a conservative estimate that roughly 40% of available power was wasted on the passive crossover components.
I can't think of a single thing that's suffered (other than simplicity) from the upgrade. I highly recommend it! Just don't skimp on active crossover components, & get the most for your dollar there.