New home theater layout

[bmwr75]

Here is approximately what the home theater room will be when the new house is finished. This was originally supposed to be a bonus room on the 2nd floor above the garage that was oddly shaped (followed the roof line). Decided to box it in and make it rectangular following the golden rule dimensions for audio rooms. Y'all think this will be a decent sounding HT room?

[vstarkwell]

Hey Scott it's Ian, don't know much about room design and or dynamics but here's hoping it comes out well for you.

[bearjew]

that slant in the ceiling should help a little bit with reflections, but i won't claim to know what i'm talking about

[schwarcw]

Looking good Scott!  I assume that you are going to place the subwoofers on the wall centers (not in the corners) on three  or four walls?

Where is the popcorn machine?     

[bmwr75]

Two subs most likely Carl.  Placing them on the long walls is doable.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

I love the slanted ceiling and the split level.   How hard would it be to make that a gradual slant for the entire length of the room rather than the quick slant then level ceiling?

[bmwr75]

Hey Mark.  At this point in construction that would be an expensive redo.  We are at the point of painting the finished sheetrock.  I asked the contractor about slanting the complete ceiling and seem to recall he was concerned about the ceiling joists sagging because they would have been >25' long.

[bmwr75]

Hey Scott it's Ian, don't know much about room design and or dynamics but here's hoping it comes out well for you.

Thanks much Ian.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

I really have no idea if it would even be preferable, just thinking out loud.

[OldiesButGoodies]

That looks like a great design - not much to add.   Like Mark wrote a continuous slant would create a smoother acoustical horn,  but this is pretty dang nice. Make sure the floor platform holding the second couch is dampened properly, they tend to want to make a sound of their own otherwise  . 

Just to be on the safe side,  you could leave a hidden cable run for front heights, surround heights, and god speakers (ceiling above couches) in case Auro-3D or Dolby Atmos really take off. 

http://viahome.com/dolby-atmos-vs-auro-3d-surround-sound/

Pepe

[Jim Pittsburgh]

I'll echo what OBG said.... wire the room for as many speakers as possible in the floor, walls and ceiling all leading to one point at the equip location. I built my room addition with audio / surround in mind thinking that we'll move to 12.5 surround or greater at some point..... the extra wiring really came in handy when I changed my out door set up and added an additional sub in side that I hadn't planned on.  I used 12 gauge low oxy "in wall" wire throughout the walls, and floor ( can't do ceiling in my room) .... I think I cornered the market on copper for a while in the Pittsburgh region. Make sure that you use "in wall" or "outdoor" grade wire.... and its per the building codes.

[MacGeek]

Don't forget the A/C side of the wiring.  20 to 30 amp lines for amps and separate circuits for the front end and sources.  I also use a separate circuit for non audio gear, such as lighting.

[bearjew]

just realized that you're putting a 134" screen in there.  what, couldn't spring for 135?
that'll be incredible.  get a 4k projector for that thing, and you'll think it's all happening in front of you.

[OldiesButGoodies]

Scott -

Just thought about one other thing - the screen. The inexpensive thing to do is get a motorized 16:9 screen. If you can put a few more bucks on the table,  get one that tensions automatically (no waves!), and, if you can put a few more bucks on the table, auto-masking for 2.35:1 movies.   If you can afford it because you hit the lotto, get an anamorphic lens for the projector so you can use its full resolution on 2.35:1 movies. Those anamorphic lens are expensive but hold their value well (and if you are lazy like me,  get anamorphic lens that moves into place with servo motors when you press the right button on the remote). 

 

[OldiesButGoodies]

Only one more thing...  (like Columbo): make sure the hdmi to the projector is hdmi 1.4 so it will be able to handle 4k (or any cable certified for 4K at the length that you are needing).