My car exploded

[OCCD]

I have ALL the parts you need Mark.  Even another complete engine.

[OCCD]

These have no distributors SD

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

Even another complete engine.

Good to know, but I'm hoping to not have to go that route.

[schwarcw]

I believe the plastic cover is for the overhead camshaft.  A car will get very hot if the timing is off.  My guess is the timing belt broke because of heat or stress, and the observed symptoms of a backfire etc. are the result.   If this is the case you may have some serious problems.  Not beyond repair but not what you wanted to hear.  I hope that I am wrong.  You need to have a mechanic take a look at this.  Good luck!

[SunnyDaze]

Carl, those 3.8 motors are overhead valve and have timing chains, not timing belts.

Being distributorless, it's pretty safe to assume that the engine hasn't "jumped" timing.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

I will scan for codes hopefully tomorrow and see if any are ignition related.

[SunnyDaze]

In all honesty Mark, I highly doubt that the second scenario that I originally stated was the occurrence. The first scenario is much more likely. If you want to scan for codes to be safe (recommended), then by all means, please do so!

[ataudio]

Wow! Good luck. I too own said vehicle.  Its the single, biggest POS purchase
I ever made.  But, as others pointed out it shouldnt be "toooooo bad" to fix.
That plastic intake manifold cost me about $500 a couple of years ago.  I cant remember
the exact amount.  Mine didnt crack but apparently Ford used sub par O-rings that dried
up and leaked air/fuel.  They had a tech tip on in but no recall.  While you're at it
have your tech change all the spark plugs.  This is the only time you may get the
the ones against the firewall. 

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

While you're at it
have your tech change all the spark plugs.  This is the only time you may get the
the ones against the firewall.

They just did that last year.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

Okay, we (myself and two friends) just changed the intake manifold.   That didn't go exactly smoothly as a few of the threaded pieces in the center pulled out rather than the bolts releasing cleanly.   So we reassembled with the bolts being brought up from the bottom and using washers and nuts on the top.   Since these are outside of the gasket, this seemed an acceptable work around.   We also replaced plugs and wires (actually a bigger PITA than the manifold) while we were there.

We started it up.   It ran great for about a minute, then as the idle was doing it's routine drop from 1200 to 800, it stalled.   Tried twice more.   Ran about a minute then stalled.   My friend Rick pulled of the PCV and noticed the ball wasn't rattling.   So off to the parts store to pick up a new valve and an air filter while were are at it.

Made those changes and it ran fine in the driveway.   No hesitation at all.   So after a few minutes we got in and took it for a drive.   Got to the first hill and it sputtered badly.   Then it ran fine for another minute or so and then shut off.   Started it back up, got halfway home and it shut off again.   Rick asked when was the last time I changed the fuel filter.   I told him "never".   So we did that and it didn't help either.

In all of this, we never got a check engine light (other than when all the lights come on with a stall) and there were no codes either before we started or when we finished.   Any ideas?

[schwarcw]

Could be the on board computer

I'd take it to a good mechanic, maybe the Ford dealer.  I was hoping for an easy fix.

[SunnyDaze]

I've only seen one Ford ECU go bad in a decade and a half of wrenching / slanging parts.

When you say "thread pieces in the center" - do you mean the bolts that hold the upper and lower plenum together?

First thing is first - double check all spark plug wire connections at both the coils and the plugs. Additionally, check a box and verify that the plugs given to you were correct for your year and model. Did you verify the gap on the spark plugs and adjust where necessary?

Double check all vacuum lines and wiring harnesses that you had to disconnect in the process.

Did you disconnect the battery in the process? If so, did you reset the ECU? If you did not, then I would do so by disconnecting the positive battery terminal and applying the brake for 30 seconds or so.

If you reset the ECU, re-check all vacuum lines and wiring connections and nothing is out of the ordinary, and you gapped the spark plugs installed them properly, then my next two moves are to remove and clean out the idle air control motor and the mass air flow sensor. CRC Chemical makes specific cleaners for both, available at Pep Boys or Auto Zone. You can find the procedures for doing either with a quick Google search. Careful no to damage the vane in the MAF sensor.

If you want to test your fuel pressure, Pep Boys and ( I believe) Advance or Auto Zone loan Fuel Pressure gauges. Your fuel rail has a Schrader valve that permits testing. Again, a quick Google search will be your friend for the how-to of testing fuel pressure.

Last, it's stupid to even say this, but, verify that the spark plug wires are indeed on the correct cylinders.

Keep us posted.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

When you say "thread pieces in the center" - do you mean the bolts that hold the upper and lower plenum together?

Not the bolts.   They were fine and the manifold came with new ones.   The "nuts" that are actually rounded things molded into the plastic pulled out of the mid plastic manifold piece.   

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

Last, it's stupid to even say this, but, verify that the spark plug wires are indeed on the correct cylinders.

Somebody else said this to me, but it runs perfectly for a minute or so until it stalls.   I'm certain it would not if the firing order was wrong.

[Sir Thrift-a-Lot]

We did disconnect the battery.   I didn't know anything about resetting an ECU.   That seems like something to try.